In 19 days we will celebrate January 1st, 2018. My how time flies! I look forward to a healthy, happy and prosperous new year. It is my sincerest hope that you all will enjoy the same.
2017 has been a good year! Sales at Anne Gregory Jewelry have been regular, projects have been continuous in development and my ongoing study of metalsmithing has kept me inordinately busy. I’m fortunate to have the opportunities I do!
I’m also fortunate to have met some fabulous people through my eCommerce pursuits. It’s to all of you, my dear customers, cheerleaders and contributors, that I dedicate this year-end blog post. Without your ceaseless enthusiasm, kind words and patronage, I would not be able to satisfy my addiction for creativity in all things jewelry. So, from the bottom of my heart, thank you for everything! May we continue to meet in cyberspace and warm each other’s hearts!
Awhile back I was contacted by a fellow beading artist, Janine Learner, regarding photos I took for an item listed in my Etsy shop. She found these photos, amongst others, in use on another mass-marketing jewelry site. The pictures were of jewelry I created from a tutorial Janine sold me in the recent past. Janine takes an active interest in the use of her patterns and tutorials and was able to easily recognize my photos. I was understandably upset to view my artwork on a third-party website without my permission. I emailed the outfit immediately and requested they remove my photos, but to no avail.
The internet is a powerful marketing tool for products of all kinds and relies on great photography to drive sales. Piracy of these great photos has become rampant in recent years because it’s not only easy, but seemingly a victimless crime. Fraudulent mass-marketing sites use stolen photos to sell counterfeit–and, likely, non-existent–products to unsuspecting customers who have little ability to obtain refunds for items not received.
Photo piracy is a devilish problem to surmount, but we can take measures to make it harder for freebooters to succeed. Using digital watermarks is a start in that direction. I began watermarking my jewelry images by using digital text overlay (with very little opacity so as not to impact the artwork) but I’ve since learned pirates can either crop or retouch watermark’s with simple editing tools and insert their own. Now, I allow watermark’s to intrude onto important parts of my images (using bold, legible typeface) making cropping and/or retouching photos a lot harder to do.
Digital watermark protection is not a 100% guarantee photos will not be pirated but it’s certainly a huge step toward prevention. I urge my fellow artists to use strong digital watermarking as a preemptive measure. Not only will it protect our photos, but it will help thwart fraudulent sales of unsuspecting customers who happen onto illicit mass-marketing sites.
For more information on watermarking, read Bob Gallivan’s blog post (American Kumihimo Society website) here: Bob Gallivan Blog Post
Since my last post, I have learned a new and exciting weaving technique which serves to broaden my educational journey in jewelry fine arts; it’s called Viking Knit, or Trichinopoly Chainwork.
As the name would imply, Viking Knit or, circular knitting, was an art form practiced by the Norse in the 8th and 9th centuries to create jewelry and clothing articles from both metal wire and cloth fibers. The objects they created were used for utilitarian purposes and self-adornment but it was mercantile interests that helped fuel production.
Archeological digs (Anglo-Saxon Norse, Byzantine, Greek and Roman) have unearthed artifact hoards from as far back as the 1st century B.C.E. An 8th-9th century silver paten (plate) was unearthed (along with 4 other metalwork pieces, including the famous Derrynaflan Chalice) at the site of what was once an early Irish abbey near Killenaule, County Tipperary, Ireland. The rim of this ancient vessel contains lovely Trichinopoly chainwork. Photos and additional information can be found at the following reference derived from James Graham-Campbell‘s book called, The Viking-age Gold and Silver of Scotland (AD 850-1100):
Viking Knit jewelry has been excavated from the burial sites of both men and women. Dress and hair pins were frequently found along side female skeletons, while neck chains carrying pendants depicting Norse nomenclature (axe head, Thor’s Hammer, etc.) were found in gravesite’s containing male bones. Today’s Viking Knit jewelry is more gender-neutral.
I began the hook and loop-type weave using a 36-inch length of wire and an existing wood dowel. But in my travels around the internet, I happened to come across a plastic gadget that was reported to be the latest and greatest for wire weaving, I purchased the Lazee Daizee (patent pending by Stephanie Eddy) and went to work creating wire rope in varying colors. I still wasn’t sure I had hit on the best apparatus for weaving so I went back to the web and found another gizmo called Viking Knit Tool that was being used by a few good artisans. It, too, was a long, round wood dowel but with a plastic laminated exterior (patent pending by Barbara Gumeson) and, to my surprise, it is now my go-to rod of choice.
There are many fabulous people around the world creating Viking Knit Jewelry. Irene From Peterson wrote a wonderful book called, Great Wire Jewelry. It got me from A to Z with the weaving technique. Lora-Lynn Stevens has an excellent research paper on Trichinopoly Chainwork. And British artist, Abbey Hook, sells a brilliant tutorial on Etsy called “Viking Knit Chain”. It was her instructions on “how to add new wire” that allowed me to step up to the level required to begin selling my Viking jewelry. Here are some links if you’re interested:
With so many good artists creating and selling fabulous Viking Knit Jewelry, I wondered whether they switched (like I had, initially) from using a wood dowel to some new-fangled contraption like the Lazee Daizee (which I found to be pricey and more gimmicky than practical). They had not. In fact, to a person, the wood dowel was the rod of choice.
Here are a few photos to enjoy:
Viking Knit: Blue Artistic Wire Still on the Wood Dowel
Viking Knit: Just Taken off the Wood Dowel but Prior to Pulling it through the Drawplate.
Viking Knit Rope After Pulling through the Drawplate… It’s longer, thinner and smoother.Dragon Head Viking Knit Silver BraceletViking Knit 16″ Neck Rope
I’ve been feeling guilty about not writing blog posts in a timely fashion. My excuse this month, however, allows me to feel a tad less delinquent: I’ve been learning Kumihimo using a Marudai. What great fun! Many of you may be familiar with kumihimo but I’d like to offer a brief introduction for those of you who are not.
Kumihimo is the ancient art of cord braiding. Though the techniques were used by many cultures around the world, the word has largely come to represent the textile traditions of Japan.
Historically, Kumihimo began around 645 A.D. But it wasn’t until Buddhism (and the influence of other Chinese religions) was at its height during the Heian period (794 – 1185 A.D.) that cord braiding was elevated to its current functional status. Monks produced fine braids as a form of meditation. Their work was used extensively for temple interior decoration.
During the Kamakura and Muromachi periods (1185 – 1573 A.D.) kumihimo demand soared. It was used to enhance armor for Samurai warriors and their horses. Braided ribbons were employed to wrap sword handles and to join leather and iron plates.
As the art form grew, so did the methods to produce it. Braiding stands became increasingly popular throughout the Orient. The equipment allowed for increased efficiency in the creation of more complex braids.
Braiding stands remain popular today in many parts of the world. The Marudai, in particular, is a favorite among crafts people. It was introduced in the West during the 20th century.
The Marudai has a “stool-like” appearance. The Japanese version is made with solid wood (typically, hard maple). The top plate (kagami, or mirror) is velvety smooth and has a central hole where the finished braids are suspended with counterweights. The mirror is supported by 4 legs and a matching base plate.
My Western-Style 26-inch Marudai
Additional braiding stand photos can be found at Braid Society.
To create a braid, cords are wrapped around weighted bobbin’s, or tama which hang freely around the mirror. Quantity of tama and their positions on the mirror determine the type and complexity of the braid achieved.
70 gram Tama for the Marudai
It is said Kumihimo takes a lifetime of practice and dedication. Why? Patterns worked on the Marudai require good technique and focused attention. Confidence and skill grow with practice.
Providing my eyesight doesn’t fail me in old age, I look forward to a lifetime of continued practice and dedication using the Marudai.
Every year during New York Fashion Week, color experts from Pantone determine the hottest color trends for the up and coming fall jewelry season. And for the very first time, the range of tones identified for fall 2015, have a bona fide gender-neutral appeal. September will usher in a plethora of natural, bold, earthy hues that can be worn across men’s and women’s fashions. Some of the shades already being integrated into fall jewelry collections include: sage, oak, cashmere, marsala, cadmium and amethyst, among others.
So I ask the question, “Does color matter?” In a word, yes! Color, as I wrote in a previous post, is integral to the human experience. It informs many of the choices we make daily. Our clothes and the jewelry we wear to embellish them make our bodies appear interesting and sexually attractive. Without proper color combining, jewelry especially would lack in vitality and be tremendously uninspiring. Color selection affects our minds and behaviors so it will, of necessity, make our lives more or less meaningful.
Attention to color trends was not my priority as a young adult. But with age (and what some would call fashion-sense maturity), color consideration has became increasingly important.
Recently, I made an unexpected visit to a satellite salon of a reputable national hair company. While I was receiving a brow wax, I was persuaded to stay for a much needed hair makeover. The anticipated outcome was a return to my blonde roots but the gal mistakenly treated my hair a dark chocolate brown. Then (with my approval), she tried to lift the brown and ended up turning my hair a shockingly brilliant orange! Three more attempts were made at blonde toning, but 9.5 hours later, I drove home in the dark with coppery orange/red hair. Now let me say unequivocally, color consideration became paramount the next morning! What clothes do I wear? Are my purple-soled Nike’s off limits? Is my salmon tank top too dull, or too bright? Should I change the blue bead in my necklace to white pearl? So many questions!
You may ask, “Does she really dislike red hair?” Absolutely not! I have friends who enjoy some of the most gorgeous red hair ever to be seen. The crux of the problem, as I realize it, is getting used to viewing my head in the mirror with something other than flaxen blonde strands. And because I wasn’t emotionally prepared for the sudden change to orange/red hair, I had no point of reference for color coordinating clothes.
So, what’s next on the agenda? I have a hair dresser lined up to help return my hair to its original blonde. (I admit, my ego received a serious blow at the hands of the supposed professional.) But until or unless she can effect change, does color still matter? Not so much! Time has passed. I’m wearing what I please, and I just happen to have one of the most gorgeous dogs on the planet who also happens to have coppery red hair… WE LOOK ALIKE! Yes, Mango and I share the same gorgeous hair color! What more could a dog-loving person ask for?
So, here’s to sweet Mango and our matching coppery red hair!
As someone who crafts salable art jewelry, I am often referred to, and by others, as “artist”. The dictionary describes an artist as a person who practices or provides one of the various creative arts. I have never had an issue being called artist, but then, I’ve never given the matter much thought either.
I was watching a documentary one recent evening when I became interested in comments made by the accomplished Japanese sculptor, Etsuro Sotoo. He referred to stone, the medium of his craft for the last 37 years, as his master. His stone carvings, he said, are brought to life by the stone itself. He refers to stone as his machine, his heart, his teacher.
Rather than create art, Sotoo said he copies art. He copies nature. And he takes no credit for sculpture design because the design for everything already exists. The design for every thing exists in nature. And nature is perfect!
Immersed in thought later, I realized how profound Etsuro Sotoo’s comments were. Nature is teacher. Everything we do has been taught us by nature. And, yes, nature is perfect! The dictionary describes nature as the phenomenon wherein features and other products are brought forth by the earth, as opposed to humans. These earthly creations include plants, animals, landscapes. etc.
Nature teaches me about love, about love of art. Nature teaches me about creation, about love for all creation. Whenever I feel happy, I will often take a photo of my surroundings, a photo of a beautiful flower, a gorgeous landscape, a photo of my dogs, my family or friends. Why do I take photos when I am happy? Because all of those amazing beings and creatures are a reflection of nature. They are nature. And nature is perfect.
Today, I put the finishing touches on a beautiful bracelet. I called it Morning Glory Bracelet because I wanted the jewelry to reflect the beauty that is the natural, sun-loving Morning Glory flower. It is perfect.
As a child, and later as a young adult, I was never fond of antiques. They often held a musty smell and were not of pristine condition (a requirement, I guess, for a young, uncultured mind)!
We had a marvelous (I didn’t think so at the time) antique establishment in my home town prior to college. And anytime I would tour the store with visiting relatives, I literally couldn’t wait to get back outdoors to breathe fresh air.
In middle age, however, I have come to appreciate the artistic value of historic collectibles.
I recently acquired two Vintage Beaded Purses from the estate of my husband’s family. The age of these reticule’s (as they were once called) is at least turn of the century.
Despite the understated appearance of the vintage purses, there is something in viewing that stirs my heart. Perhaps it is the experience of satisfaction the creators might have enjoyed with the fulfillment of ambition. My sentiments, no doubt, are comparable in achievement.
In my visual pursuit of online classic memorabilia, I developed a healthy enthusiasm for vintage chain maille purses. So much so, in fact, I decided to create two impressions of my own: the Victorian Gate Mesh Chatelaine Purse and the Silver Mesh Chain Maille Coin Purse.
The stainless steel jump rings used in the purses were tumbled and polished prior to assembly. Stainless steel is strong, dependable and satiny smooth to the touch. It is a great medium for vintage-inspired purses.
I hope to add future chain maille purse styles to my repertoire in the near future.
Here’s to dreamy dreams and beaded/chain maille visions!
Color is integral to the human experience. It informs many of the choices we make daily, both directly and indirectly. So much of what is important in our lives involves the expression of color. But our experiences are highly personal because each of us interprets color a bit differently. The colorblind among us, for instance, have difficulty differentiating between reds and greens.
How do we perceive color? An abbreviated answer is this: objects absorb and reflect light. Special receptors in our eyes transmit those various lightwaves to our brains where they are interpreted as color sensations.
Because of social conditioning, we humans have developed our own internalized criteria for determining what the appropriate use for given colors are in every facet of our lives (i.e. girls wear pink, boys wear blue). We do this, it is thought, to satisfy our psyches emotionally. Color, therefore, affects our minds and it affects our behavior.
Our ability to perceive color puts the world of fashion at our fingertips. Our clothes and the jewelry we wear to embellish them make our bodies appear interesting and sexually attractive. Thus, color considerations require immense respect during the design phase because without proper color combining, jewelry especially would lack in vitality and be tremendously uninspiring.
If color associations matter then, how are protocols established for color use in the world of fashion? Most industry professionals are informed by the color wheel; it’s a circular tool that shows the colors of the rainbow in relationship to each other (our eyes are tuned in to the rainbow spectrum of light). The color wheel allows artists the freedom to make neutral and mutually beneficial selections to enhance their designs.
For example, let’s say the main color in a particular sketch is determined to be red. Subsequent corresponding colors might need to be appointed to either complement and/or contrast the dominant red color.
Using the wheel below, find the color red. To it’s right, you will notice shades of orange; to its left, shades of purple. Opposite red on the wheel are various hues of aqua. A couturier might settle for both orange and purple (among other colors) to complement the red in her design. She might also choose aqua (among other colors) for contrast.
So, each of the selections from the color wheel will necessarily have close physical associations to the salient color in the design.
Color Wheel
Many of us admittedly feign ignorance to the science of color and its effects on life (myself included), unless by necessity, we are obliged to partake in its interest and wealth of intrigue. Color is fun. The depth and breath of its scope is limitless which makes it a fascinating topic on many levels.
So, what is the color of life? Well… life is whatever color we want to consign to it. Our expressions of color are nuanced by how we live our lives. And conversely, our lives are nuanced by expressions of color. How we interpret and experience those colors is what helps to give our lives and our world increased meaning!
Here’s wishing you dreamy dreams and colorful visions!
Are you familiar with Cellini Spiral Bracelets? They’re created with a tubular peyote stitch (bead-weaving vernacular) using a variety of bead shapes, sizes and colors the outcomes of which are absolutely fascinating.
Why is the jewelry called Cellini? Well, that’s still a mystery to be realized but the weave is widely popular in the beading industry by both artists and consumers alike. I, for one, love, love, LOVE the Cellini spiral, thus, my efforts here at promoting this well sought-after fashion trend.
Most of the Cellini’s I’ve seen on the internet have large, round seed beads as the leading spiral — the focus of which inspires the remaining color palette. I wanted to try my hand at something different so I used freshwater pearls as the dominant beads to make a more impactful statement. I’m happy to say they worked! And, to date, I’ve not seen another virtual bracelet in its likeness. The lovely peacock blue/gray colors remind me of the sea and the spiral motif is reminiscent of sea creatures!
For application, the Cellini Spiral simply rolls over the hand. It’s really that simple! The smooth beads and the bracelet design allow for the flexibility required to wheel the piece over protruding knuckles and onto the wrist where it can be adorned with other bangle bracelets if so desired.
The Cellini Spiral shown below measures approximately 0.71-inches wide (18 mm). It can be made thinner with the use of smaller beads. I hope to have samples showcasing the different sizes and color palettes in the very near future.
Whether you’re running out to a dorm party clad in stringy blue jeans, or attending a formal retirement dinner for a co-worker, don’t feel restrained by age or attire. It’s all about the wrist! But don’t take my word for it. Try a bracelet for yourself and fall in love! Then go tell the world about Cellini Spiral’s!
Here’s wishing you dreamy dreams and vivid visions!
My new obsession this year is Barefoot Sandals! Yes! Those dainty and floppy beaded things otherwise known as foot thongs! With each new dawn, I wait (or worry?) for inspiration on how to create an ornamental ribbon resembling a string of beads or a cross section of a bracelet or necklace. Do I have the right stones? Do the colors coordinate? Will anybody like it? I have to say, there has been a meteoric rise in popularity and positive feedback from fans most of which come from women who love foot jewelry as much, if not more than I do (if that’s possible)!
Here in Texas we grow fine green grass… as fine a grass as you will find anywhere in the world. And like all good green grass, it’s wanting for the prettiest of bare feet. But… we also grow FIRE ANTS! Yes, Solenopsis! For those readers who are unfamiliar with these formidable critters, they’re red, they bite, they STING and then they itch! FOREVER! So, wearing barefoot sandals outdoors in Texas (and in other parts of the Southern United States) is probably not something I would recommend unless you’re at the shore.
I remember the passed-over beach parties my employers set up over the years to help improve interpersonal relationships between co-workers; the Friday night pool parties ignored for feeling shy, and a tad inadequate. And the long weekend boat excursions where beer was as plentiful as the worms used to bait the fishing hooks.
With age comes maturity (at least for most of us) and a softening of fears. We have a greater appreciation for all things beautiful, including jewelry. I can slip on a pair of attractive foot thongs, for instance, and feel like I’m walking in paradise! I experience increased adrenaline, increased self-worth and confidence. Increased everything! It’s quite remarkable really that beads strung together with an otherwise understated elegance can have suchst reached paradise. I experience increased adrenaline, increased self-confidence and self-worth. Increased everything! It’s quite remarkable really that beads strung together with an otherwise understated elegance can have such a powerful effect on the psyche.
For me, wearing barefoot sandals is kind of like donning new underwear in the morning knowing I will be the only one that sees them. Does it make me feel fabulous? Of course it does! Brand new underwear always boosts morale. And so do foot thongs when worn for our own enjoyment! They not only boost morale but they can foster team spirit as well. The new shapes and styles offer wild glam-rock vibes that can work an entire crowd.
Whether in the comfort and privacy of my own home or at an outdoor rock concert, it’s all about the feet! But don’t take my word for it. Try a pair for yourself and fall in love! Then go tell the world about Barefoot Sandals!
Here’s wishing you dreamy dreams and vivid visions!
Historically, the use of mail as battlefield armor was confined to the domain of male soldiers across Europe, the Middle East, Asia and Japan where it provided an effective means of defense against the impact of weaponry. Today, mail is no longer used in combat but it continues to enjoy popularity for practical purposes in a variety of industrial settings including fishing, woodcarving, meat packing and scuba diving.
Chain mail has extended its usefulness from the theater of war to the artist’s palette with applications in sculpture, jewelry, clothing, headdresses, accessories and other decorative mediums. The possibilities for this unique art form are endless.
The photos below show what is possible for the edging on purses, pouches, apparel and the like. The first time I witnessed a similar finish on a comparable item, I was awe-struck at its ornate construction, its utilitarian application. As a rule, the two are mutually exclusive!
I wanted to create an equivalent article, so here is my T Is For Texas Purse. It was a lot of fun to make.
T Is For Texas PurseT Is For Texas Purse (side view)
Update on the Breast Cancer Awareness Bracelet: Ware now offering a fifth version of the Breast Cancer Awareness Bracelet with a pink runner’s ribbon charm for $40. The other 4 bracelets are still available. The The Susan G. Komen Foundation will receive 50% of profit for any of the bracelets sold. Thank you for your support.
Breast Cancer Awareness Bracelet with Pink Runner’s Charm
October is Breast Cancer Awareness month. To help raise funds and increase awareness, Anne Gregory, LLC will be making and selling the Pink Ribbon Breast Cancer Awareness Bracelet with authentic sterling silver and/or pink enameled ribbons attached. A running tally of bracelet sales will be posted here on the blog.
The Half Persian 4 in 1 Pink Chain Maille Bracelet is 8-inches long and 0.5-inches wide (20.3 x 1.3 cm).
The most common misperception regarding chain maille weaves is that they originated in the ancient cultures of their namesakes but the reality is, most weave designations are indicative of style and not origin.
Chain maille begins (and ends) with linked rings. Families of weaves such as Byzantine, Persian and European are defined by the particular motif or dominant patterns they express. Because their origins have not been determined, the Byzantine and Persian weaves cannot be attributed to Byzantium nor Persian cultures, as much as we would love to romanticize they were.
The classic Byzantine weave is rooted in jewelry antiquity. It is a 4-in-1 weave meaning each ring in the pattern has four other rings passing through it.
The Persian weaves (Full and Half Persian) are variations of complex linkages that produce patterns with both depth and weight. Most are contemporary designs.
The European 1 in 4 weave is thought to have been in use for greater than 3,000 years and was likely introduced by the Celts. The Romans subsequently adopted the designs for Centurion armor.
Today, the art of chain maille continues to flourish not only as a means for protection (industrial settings) but also for purposes of adornment, where the possibilities are limitless.
It’s my great pleasure to know about this remarkable and ancient art form. The learning process never ends and each new project never fails to astonish.
